Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
- Condensation Causes & Cures ... ?
- Where can I find ... U- and R-Values
for Harvey Manufactured Products?
- What if my windows don't tilt in...? or
What if my windows don't close completely...? or
What if my sash doesn't operate correctly...?
- How do I
Replace The Pivot Bar in my Harvey Window... ?
- How do I remove my window screens... ?
- How can I install an air conditioner in my Harvey Vinyl
Windows... ?
Condensation Causes & Cures ... ?
- What is Condensation?
- What to do if Condensation Appears on Your New Harvey Windows
- Controlling Indoor Humidity
- Condensation in the Home - A Warning Sign
- Temporary Condensation
Windows serve as visible areas for moisture to condense to
warn you that there is too much moisture in the air inside your house
What is Condensation?
Condensation comes from the moisture in the air, and is
caused by too much moisture in the air for a certain temperature. Condensation
forms when warm, moist air touches a surface that is colder than the dew point
of the warm air. As that air becomes colder and its temperature drops below its
dew point, it must release excess moisture to reach its new, lower dew point. It
releases moisture in the form of water, which appears on the colder surface.
Example: A common example of moisture condensation is when a
glass of ice water "sweats" when you bring it outside in the summer. When the
warm, moist air touches the cold glass, the temperature of the air drops below
its dew point, forcing the air to release moisture in the form of water on the
sides of the glass. There are many things in our homes that put moisture into
the air. Normal breathing and perspiration adds 3 pints of water to the air
every day for each person in your home. In fact, every activity that uses water
adds more moisture to the air including cooking, taking showers, dish washing,
and doing laundry.
What to do if Condensation Appears on Your New Harvey Windows?
Your new Harvey Windows are designed to prevent air
infiltration into and out of your home. Your old, drafty windows allowed the
moisture in your home to escape (along with your heat)! Your new Harvey Windows
are tight and do not allow the moisture in your home to escape. You need to
control the humidity in your home.
Controlling Indoor Humidity
Homes are now made tighter than ever. They are well insulated
and no longer "breath" on their own. Steps must be taken to ventilate the house,
allowing moisture and humidity to escape.
Steps you can take to control the humidity in your home
include:
* Venting gas burners and clothes dryers to the outside.
* Installing exhaust fans in the kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry rooms.
* Controlling or covering other sources of humidity (radiator water pans, fish
tanks, large numbers of plants, etc.).
* Installing a dehumidifier.
* Opening fireplace damper.
* Ventilating the crawl space or basement: Install foundation vents or leave a
basement window cracked in the fall or early winter to ventilate your basement
or crawl space.
* Ventilating the attic: Because of vapor pressure, the moist warm air from your
home can go right through your ceiling into your attic. If your attic is not
ventilated, the humid air will condense on the cold underside of your roof.
This condensation can start to rot the roof boards, cause ice dams, or drip
down onto the ceiling below and damage your plaster, paint, and attic
insulation. With proper ventilation, you can eliminate condensation before it
causes any major damage to your home. Remember, windows do not cause
condensation. The best way to avoid condensation is to reduce the humidity of the
air inside your home.
Condensation in the Home - A Warning Sign
Condensation can occur wherever warm, moist air comes in
contact with a colder surface, which is why it usually happens during the
winter. During winter, the air in your house is much warmer than the air
outside.
Condensation usually is first noticed on your windows because they are the most
visible areas of your house. Condensation on your windows means that the air in
your house has too much moisture in it. Your indoor humidity is too high. While
you notice condensation first on your windows, it could mean that your excessive
indoor humidity is causing damage elsewhere in places you can't see, such as:
your walls, ceilings, floors, and your attic roof. Excessive indoor humidity can
cause blistering and peeling paint, warping and rotting wood, as well as the
formation of mildew.
Temporary Condensation
Wood, plaster, cement, and other building materials used in
new construction and remodeling produce a great deal of moisture. A new home or
addition will have excessive moisture from the new foundation. Concrete does not
dry completely for up to one year. Rapid drops in temperature can also create
temporary condensation problems during the heating season.
R-Value is a measure of resistance to heat gain or loss. The higher the
number, the better a product is at resisting heat loss.
U-Value, the reciprocal of R-Value, is the measure of the rate of heat loss
through a material. Thus, in all aspects of home design, one should strive for
the lowest U-Values possible because the lower the U-Value, the less heat that
is needlessly escaping.
Windows with "clear" glass are the least efficient, while windows with Low-E
are much more thermally effective. The best performing windows are those using
Low-E/Argon glazing. With this glazing, all Harvey vinyl windows are ENERGY
STARŪ qualified throughout the country.
Download U-Value &
R-Value Charts
A detailed listing of U- and R-Values for Harvey Manufactured Products is
available in PDF format, and requires the FREE
Adobe Acrobat
Reader
Please note that U-Values are subject to change without notice.
Download the U-and R-U_R_Values
Test Results Chart now.
State Energy Code Information
Some states such as Massachusetts have enacted more stringent Energy Code
guidelines that require the use of special glazing such as Low-E glass in
replacement windows. Please refer to the state building codes for specific
guidelines.
Massachusetts Energy Code
The Massachusetts Energy Code states that all replacement windows shall have a
maximum U-Value of .44 as of January 1, 1999. All windows must be NFRC (National
Fenestration Rating Council) certified and labeled as such.
January 5, 1999 Amendments
Exception 1: Criteria for NFRC listing/labeling and maximum U-0.44 are not
required if the existing window(s) are true divided light (i.e. single thickness
multi-pane sashes with structural muntin bars) and being replaced with "like
kind" units. This exception additionally requires that a storm window be
installed over the replacement window.
Exception 2: Criteria for NFRC listing/labeling and maximum U-0.44 are not
required for basement windows with a unit height up to 24", whether or not the
basement is a conditioned space.
For Double Hung Windows:

Disengaged Pivot Bar

Engaged Pivot Bar |
Make sure that the pivot bar (cast metal at the bottom of sash) is seated in
the metal housing (can) on the side of the track. If it is not, it must be
reinserted.
NOTE: Housings in track must be parallel to each other to disengage the brake.
For a larger view of the photos to the right, you may click on them.
Check to see if any of the two pieces of metal (pivot bar) described above
have broken, leaving fragments in the bottom of the track. If your pivot bar is
broken, you may order a replacement part by clicking
here.
Check to see if any part of the vinyl on the sash or in the track has been
cracked or sustained damage.
If you have checked your double hung window for all of the above
circumstances and it still does not close or operate correctly, please
e-mail us and describe the
problem to us.
For Casement Windows:
We recommend, that you clean and lubricate the hinges at least twice a year.
If you haven't lubricated the mechanical portion (crank mechanism & hinges),
please do so with a light oil.
Check the operating arms to see if they have become bent or unfastened from
the unit or sash itself.
Check to see if the window sash lock keeper comes in contact with the lock
itself.
If you have checked your casement window for all of the above circumstances
and it still does not close or operate correctly, please
e-mail us and describe the
problem to us.
How do I replace the Pivot Bar in my
Harvey window?
For Vinyl or Majesty Wood Mechanical Sash
Double Hung Window - Full Screen
Our full screens are designed as "side mount" systems. To remove them, follow
the steps below:
Step 1:
Remove both sash. |
|
Step 1a:
Unlock the window and lift the bottom sash 6 - 8". |
 |
Step 1b:
Use the Tilt-Latch to tilt the bottom sash into your home. |
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Step 1c:
If there is a pivot retainer (plastic clip) in your model, it must be
removed with the end of a pen or like device. |
 |
Step 1d:
Disengage the bottom sash from the frame by lifting one side and then the
other.
To remove the top sash, pull the top sash down 6 - 8" and follow the same
procedure in steps 1b through 1d. |
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Step 2:
Once both sash are removed, you may take hold of the pull tabs located on
the right side of your screen. Pull the screen to the left and push out.
If it is easier for you to release one end of the screen first, pull the top
half of your screen to the left and push out. Then, do the same for the
bottom. |
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Step 3:
Replace both sash by following the reverse of the instructions above. |
How can I install an air conditioner
in my Harvey Vinyl Windows?
You cannot rest the air conditioner directly on the vinyl sill. We suggest
you put a 2 x 4 into the sill track that measures 1" or 2" higher than the sill
so the air conditioner can rest on it.
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